The car’s air filter is a typical component that wears out over time and needs to be replaced regularly.
You can go to a garage to have the assembly done; however, doing so is not required because it is a job that even a layperson could typically complete without encountering difficulties.
Even if you have little to no experience with cars, changing the air filter will be simple if you follow our step-by-step instructions.
Why is it important to regularly change the filter in the air conditioner?
The air filter can almost be thought of as the “lungs” of the vehicle. To function correctly, the engine requires air. If the air is not filtered, dirt and dust particles could damage the engine.
Because of the air filter, the engine compartment is supplied with only clean air. The minute pores, on the other hand, have the potential to become obstructed over time to the point where no air can escape.
After that, the air-fuel mixture becomes increasingly greasy, and the engine’s performance starts to decline.
Particularly noticeable is the significant reduction in acceleration. There are a few reasons why an inspection sticker should not be renewed on a vehicle, one of which is a problem with the air filter.
Which of the new air filters is the one that you should get?
The dimensions that the replacement air filter should have been specified in the owner’s manual for the vehicle.
Many dealers can determine the correct product simply by looking at the critical number, so it is not always necessary to consult it. There are several variations to pick from, including:
Paper air filters are the most cost-effective option among the available options. It performs its function similarly to the paper filter found in a coffee machine and is effective so long as it is still in its new state.
However, the length of its service life is one of its primary drawbacks. In most cases, its lifespan is limited to 21,700 miles or less.
Even drivers who don’t put a lot of miles on their cars will save money with this model. If that is not the case, they are typically only short-term solutions.
The most common form of rubber filter is cotton or foam, and most automakers advise using them. This model can be purchased for an affordable price and provides a good service life with 18,600 miles traveled.
Because car manufacturers typically recommend this model, purchasing one of these while the vehicle is still under warranty must always be done.
Because there are significant qualitative differences regarding the performance of filters, you should not always rely on the least expensive variant.
Additionally, blended variations are a possibility and are now being employed more frequently than in previous years. For persons who travel a lot by car, oil-impregnated air filters are ideal. These can be cleaned numerous times and then re-impregnated with oil.
Because of this, they can sometimes have a service life greater than 37,200 miles, but they are also significantly more expensive.
As a component in the manufacturing process, extremely expensive foam rubber is almost always used.
Even though there are rumors that certain air filters can damage the flow meters of diesel vehicles, this is not the case if the part in question was not manufactured incorrectly or greased incorrectly.
The fact that it does not have housing and is instead mounted directly onto the intake manifold results in a marginal increase in power but an increase in noise.
As a result, they are required to obtain approval from the MOT. This filter model is not suitable for use in most situations on a day-to-day basis.
Step by step: Altering the position of the air filter
You will need the following appliances and tools to effect the change:
The manual for the vehicle’s owner, a screwdriver, extension pliers if necessary, a ring or open-end wrench if necessary, a rag, and the new air filter
The first step is to pop the hood (but be careful not to knock over the fuses!) to search the engine compartment for the air filter box.
This is typically very simple because the air filter is generally located in an undeniable place and is typically labeled as “air filter” or with a symbol that indicates its location. Please refer to the manual if you are unable to locate it. Additionally, instructions on how to open it are provided there.
If it is a diesel vehicle, you should first disconnect the plug from the quad meter, which is directly connected to the housing for the air filter.
Following this step, depending on the vehicle, you may need to remove the intake pipe. To accomplish this, you will need to use the extendable pliers to place pressure directly on the spring while holding the hose clamp.
The pressure that had been applied to the hose coupling has been relieved. After that, it can be put to the side as needed.
Open up the housing for the air filter in step three. In most cases, this is secured with two to four staples that can be removed from the surface using a screwdriver.
There is a possibility that there are screws or threads underneath. Unscrew them using a ring wrench or a screwdriver, if that turns out to be necessary.
Remove the previous air filter, which is the fourth step in this process. It can be thrown out with the rest of the garbage in the house. If the housing for the air filter has dust or debris, you should clean it with a rag.
After that, install the freshly purchased air filter. There aren’t that many different ways that one could go wrong here. In most cases, there is only one way that it can be attached.
First, the screws or threads are changed out, which is the fifth and final step in this process. After that, you can use the clamps to secure the housing for the air filter once more.
Place the suction hose in the opening that corresponds to it, put the extendable pliers back on the spring, and push the hose clamps forward until they are a few millimeters apart.
Please turn it off, then manually examine whether or not the clamp is closed.
Reinstall the flow meter plug into its corresponding socket on diesel-powered vehicles. This is the seventh and final step.
Now is the time to start the engine with the hood raised. Take a few steps with your foot on the accelerator, and pay close attention to the sound.
Get out of the car and listen to see if the engine is making any noise while idling. The change will be considered successful if there are no objections to it. You are free to close the hood at this time.
Note: The installation of an open sports air filter is typically a bit more complicated and requires the disassembly of the air filter housing. This is necessary before the installation can begin.
Additional peculiarities may not be discussed here, but these will vary depending on the vehicle.
It is not a good idea to install something only if you are an expert in the field. It even has the potential to bring about a decline in performance at times.
If you are interested is recommended that you seek the advice of an experienced mechanic at a garage or look into reputable online sources of information, such as the Royal Automobile Club or the MOT.
Errors that are frequently made and their fixes
Even though changing an air filter is a fairly straightforward process that even a layperson should be able to complete without incident most of the time, there is always the possibility of errors and complications taking place during this task. If you are having issues after the change, you should read the following tips:
1. Unpredictable performance from the engine you notice inconsistencies in the vehicle’s performance after replacing the air filter on your diesel vehicle, it is possible that the flow meter plug is not in the appropriate position.
It should be possible to fix the issue by giving it a light shake and re-inserting it with more force.
2. Distractions caused by sounds while driving is possible that the cover for the air cleaner housing was not mounted correctly if you hear strange noises on your first trip after the change.
Either a clamp was not fitted correctly, or a screw or thread was not tightened properly, but both of these issues could have caused the problem. The work needs to be redone at this point.
Note: Many newer vehicles have their onboard diagnostic system. After you have completed the procedure, the display may give you a warning about the air filter.
Once an adequate supply of air reaches the combustion chamber, this is typically reset automatically.
You might also need to clear the warning manually if that’s an option (check the manual for specific instructions on how to do so), or you might need to go to a workshop.
3. Alarms are sounding from within the engine compartment. If you hear a beep coming from the engine compartment during your first trip after the change, it is possible that you have not correctly positioned the suction hose so that air escapes through a small hole.
This could be the case if you hear the beep during your first trip after the change. If this is the case, you must carefully inspect the connection between the connection and the hose. If necessary, tighten the hose clamp one more time, and check to see that the clinic is wholly sealed.