The clutch is not made up of just one piece but rather is assembled from a variety of different components. It is in charge of transferring power from the engine to the gearbox, which, as a result of its many gears, is able to transfer a variety of kinetic energies and speeds.
How you drive your car and the type of vehicle you drive both have a significant impact on how long the clutch will last.
If you take our recommendations into consideration, you will be able to significantly extend the life of your clutch.
We also demonstrate how to ventilate the clutch if necessary and how to correctly rotate the new component after it has been replaced.
When is it time to get a new clutch?
Nearly all of the symptoms that point to a problem with the clutch manifest themselves gradually, and the driver doesn’t notice them until it’s almost too late.
That annoying noise you hear when shifting gears that indicates that the engagement is not properly separated is referred to as the “transmission greeting,” and almost everyone is familiar with it.
When this occurs frequently, even when the clutch is depressed properly, the wear is usually already so advanced that it is no longer possible to avoid a shift.
This is the case in the majority of cases. The clutch will react more slowly than usual and take more energy to release if the pedal does not have much “play.”
If there is air in the sending cylinder, then this will be a sign of it. With just a little bit of technical know-how, you can quickly resolve this issue.
If you are unable to start the vehicle because the engine will not restart even when you apply sufficient force to the accelerator, the problem may be one that affects the entire system.
Conducting a test of the clutch’s force.
It is possible to determine, through a straightforward test, whether or not the clutch force is still adequate. The handbrake must be applied, the engine must be off, and the car must be parked on a surface that is as level as possible.
Now, let go of the clutch, and start the engine at a speed just above idling. After that, select one of the higher gears to put you in.
The engine should be shut off whenever feasible when accelerating in the highest gear (take care when pressing!) since this will produce the best results.
In the event that nothing happens, the wear and tear have already advanced. The clutch pressure should be sufficient to prevent the engine from starting when it is in third gear at the very latest.
In the event that this is not the case, the clutch cannot be fixed and a new one will be required.
The clutch must have ventilation, and pedal play must be eliminated.
It is possible that there is only air in the system if the clutch force is still sufficient but the pedal feels loose and a significant amount of force is required to disengage the clutch in the correct manner.
The hydraulic clutches that are standard on the vast majority of vehicles manufactured today have the capability to vent themselves.
If you are just starting out, it is best to seek the assistance of an experienced individual. Having said that, there are not many things that can go wrong, the most common of which is allowing additional air into the system.
If you are unable to ventilate the system, you should go on to a workshop. They have a specialized device that functions on the principle of a parallel circuit and completely gets rid of the air.
The following equipment must be available:
a wrench capable of applying torque along with the proper nut
– brake fluid (see manual)
– a driver for screws
jack for lifting, if it is applicable
– a length of hose and a hose clamp, preferably one that is see-through if at all possible
– a container
Preparation
First, you have to find the reservoir for the brake fluid, then you have to fill it up with the correct fluid all the way to the top mark.
After that, you will be able to immediately replace the air that is being exhausted by the system.
Step 1
Give your assistant the instruction to get inside the vehicle. Either crawl underneath the vehicle or use a jack to raise the front passenger side.
Keep an eye on the transmission that is leading away from the engine. The clutch slave cylinder can be found behind it.
If you are having trouble locating it, look for where the hose that returns brake fluid to the cylinder passes through. This ought to be located right on top of the sending cylinder.
Step 2
Pry the protective cap off of the vent screw using a screwdriver and then either remove a small clip using the screwdriver or pry the protective cap off using the screwdriver.
Step 3
Now, position the hose and clamp so that they are covering the nipple that can be seen on the vent valve. After the brake fluid container has been refilled, the other end of the hose should be inserted into the container.
Step 4
Give your assistant the instruction to depress the clutch pedal as far as it will go several times, and then tell them to repeat this process at least five times.
Finally, make sure to keep your foot down on the pedal all the way until it stops moving.
Step 5
Now take a ring wrench and open the valve so that you can inspect the hose and the reservoir.
Close the valve once more as soon as you notice that the brake fluid is no longer producing any bubbles and that it is freely flowing through the hose.
Step 6
Repeat this process an unlimited number of times or until there is no more air in the system, whichever comes first.
Step 7
Is to close the valve temporarily, let off the clutch, and then check the amount of fluid in the brake fluid reservoir.
If it has gone down, you need to keep adding until you reach a higher mark.
Step 8
Utilizing the torque wrench and applying a torque of 4 Nm to the valve, close it.
Step 9
Take off the protective cap and replace it after removing the hose. Depending on the kind of component, you can either snap it on or turn the screw to make it tighter.
Step 10
Make a few shifts in the gears. Keep a close eye on the amount of force needed to press the pedal.
Carry out to finish the clutch test that was previously stated. If there are no issues, the pressure release has been successful.
The following are some ways to avoid arriving at this point: This method of driving helps to preserve the clutch.
A clutch should not wear out very soon if it is used properly because it is typically made not to. This is something that is particularly obvious in automobiles that have automatic transmissions.
The clutch can last up to 185,000 miles without needing to be replaced because everything in this line works automatically with no human involvement, and this is true even in vehicles that experience a lot of use.
In vehicles with manual transmissions, the situation is entirely different. In this case, the service life is somewhere between 12,500 and 125,000 miles, which makes it abundantly clear that a significant margin of improvement is possible by modifying the way in which one drives.
If you want to keep your clutch in good condition, you must always remember to respect the following points:
Completely depress the following
Even though doing so may cost you and in some vehicles may even result in momentary muscle pain, you should always try to fully depress the clutch pedal.
The explanation for this lies in the mechanics of the situation; only in this manner is it possible to arrive at the optimal point for loading the material, which is critically important for the process of gear shifting. I should remark that this also applies to the gearshift in passing.
Whoever starts to jerk the gearshift nervously before the end of the clutching process, because he cannot wait for the moment to change gears, will not enjoy the clutch and the transmission for a long period of time.
Take your foot off the clutch and do the following
Whatever is required to compete at a high level in racing should also be used in everyday driving. After shifting gears, if the clutch pedal is held down for an extended period of time, this will place a mechanical load on the clutch, which will shorten the clutch’s service life.
Because of this, you should only operate the clutch for the shortest amount of time possible, and then immediately take your foot off the pedal.
Also, when waiting, such as at traffic lights, the clutch pedal shouldn’t be held down if the handbrake is engaged and the engine is idling. By doing this, the clutch won’t slip.
At short stops, this is obviously not necessary; however, at larger intersections, if it is possible that you will be stationary for at least a minute and a half, you should do so.
When parking, ensure that there is no tension on the transmission by doing the following
This a piece of advice that will safeguard not only the clutch but also the transmission as well. If the driver shifts into neutral before parking and uses only the hand brake, they relieve the tension on the transmission and clutch that would otherwise be responsible for reducing the power output of the engine. Do not panic.
Even on inclines, a handbrake that is in good condition will keep the vehicle from moving on its own. Problems will never arise unless it gets very worn out first.
Avoid gear changes
Even though it is obvious that you will have to apply the brakes at any moment, you should shift up into a higher gear before you reach the traffic light.
If you drive like this, you can say goodbye to your clutch in a very short amount of time. Try to steer clear of shifting gears.
This should be the guiding philosophy, and the most efficient way to do this when driving is to be proactive.
This is something that will be particularly difficult for beginners to do, but as you gain more experience, it will become simpler for you to anticipate and prepare for potential outcomes.
The number of times you have to change gears can be minimized then.
After making the switch, driving cautiously is the best course of action.
When you go back to the workshop to have the clutch replaced, they will most likely give you the advice to slow down and take it easy over the next few days.
This is for a few different reasons. Because of the possible tolerances, the mechanical parts need some time before they can reach their optimal state of harmony.
On the other hand. On the other hand, it’s crucial that the greases and oils needed for proper lubrication are distributed evenly throughout the system.
Before you consider the replacement clutch to be completely acclimated to the vehicle, you should go at least 6,000 miles.
You should proceed in the following manner during this time:
Maintaining as low an engine speed as possible while operating the vehicle is highly recommended. On the autobahn, you should quickly shift into a higher gear and wait as long as possible before descending. The maximum engine speed of 4,000 revolutions per minute should be avoided at all costs.
As soon as you reach a slope, under no circumstances should you allow the clutch to slip. Take some time to adjust the handbrake. Because the pressure on the clutch is still lower than it would be if you let it slip, you are in a position where you can temporarily go over the rev limit if this becomes necessary.
During the first 500 kilometers, you are not allowed to transport a trailer, caravan, or bike carrier.
It is perfectly normal for the engine to come dangerously close to stalling or to rattling at various points in the first few kilometers after the clutch has been changed.
However, if this continues to be the case after you have driven for 6,000 miles, you need to visit a workshop as soon as possible because there may be a problem with the assembly.
In addition to this, it is possible that the surface pattern of the clutch disc is to blame for this issue. If this is the case, you can improve the surface pattern by explicitly specifying slopes to be included in the design, and your workshop can monitor the progress.
