The side window is a component of the automobile that, in most cases, is not accorded a great deal of importance. It has been years, but there have been no problems caused by it.
However, the time may come when the glass is no longer in the door, and any attempt to raise it will only result in an annoying creaking sound.
In most cases, the issue that appears to be very serious can be resolved very quickly. We’ll go over everything you need to know to fix the side glass on your car in this article.
Hidden Tricky Mechanism
All automobiles share the following mechanisms for their side windows: Two clips mounted on a track connected to the agency that lifts the glass are either the direct or indirect holders of the glass.
A hand crank or an electric motor can be used to operate this. The door might have dislodged from its track if the glass had fallen inside. Even though this can be fixed, you should proceed cautiously and be as thorough as possible.
Reaching the side glass without shattering it
To start fixing the glass housing, the lifting mechanism must first be exposed to the atmosphere.
Already we have our first obstacle to overcome. The mechanisms are hidden behind the door panels; the panels must first be removed to access them. The following components are used to assemble the door paneling:
– Straight nuts and bolts
– Mounting components including, but not limited to, handles, opening contacts, power windows, and possibly the internal adjustment mechanisms for the rearview mirrors
– Side pockets
Screws are relatively simple to release when they are too tight. The side handles and the pockets are often attached with screws as well.
If the side handle has an electric window lifter built into it, the switch needs to be removed first.
Because it is usually only held in place by staples, it can be removed by prying it off with a wide screwdriver. This is the case because staples are the only type of fastener used.
After that, the cable lug is taken off. After that, I uninstalled the side cladding shouldn’t present any difficulties.
However, it’s not always easy to get the window crank off, but when you do, you’ll be glad you did it.
Companies that produce cars have made a variety of systems accessible for purchase.
The following three constructions are considered standard:
– Using a central screw to tighten
– Securing with a clamping pin
– Clamping device with support ring
The most straightforward method of attaching the crank handle is using a center screw, which is available in most hardware stores.
If necessary, a flat-bladed screwdriver can be used to swiftly remove the safety cap that periodically covers it.
Unfortunately, screw heads are considered unattractive by auto designers since they are both visible and accessible. As a result, fewer and fewer people are turning to this uncomplicated and applicable solution.
Pointed pliers are the tool that will serve you best when removing the retaining pin. This component is typically quite resistant to being released, which can be pretty challenging.
Be conscious that the clamping device that includes the support ring is a unique approach to the problem. In the past, more than one frustrated amateur mechanic has come dangerously close to breaking his fingers while trying to take apart the crank.
And yet, the answer is the one that is the least complicated of them all. Just below the crank is where you’ll find the clamping device. It’s housed in a plastic ring. All that needs to be done to get rid of it with the clamping device is to push it aside.
An essential adversary
The foil needs to cover the entirety of the interior space behind the door panels. Rainwater is prevented from entering the structure by this barrier.
It must be cut away or taken out in order to access the side glass lifting mechanism, but it must be placed back in place before the car is put together.
The mechanism for lifting the side glass as well as the side glass itself
After the liner has been disassembled and the foil has been removed, the glass can be reached without difficulty.
At first glance, it will be evident that it is not in the correct location, next to the guide rail and not underneath as it should be.
It does not matter whether a guide rail or staples are used; the side glass must adhere to the frame very securely.
If it has become detached, the failure of the glue is most likely to blame. Do not try to fix the problem yourself!
The connection between the glass and the guideway must be able to sustain strong tensile forces when the glass is lowered.
The reason for this anomaly is that the side glass moves through the guideway in an arc rather than a straight line.
Any attempts using silicone, Pattex, or quick adhesive only work temporarily. Access to specialist glass adhesive kit choices is available on the market. These are sufficiently adaptive to operate on windows even though they are normally exclusively used for windshields.
It’s possible that the staples holding the side glass in place have cracked or gotten brittle. Only genuine factory replacement components will do for this purpose.
You can also go to a scrapyard if they are either too expensive or no longer available.
Advice: You’ll see that you may buy an entire glass pane with the staples put on in passing when you arrive at the junkyard. This eliminates the need to work with glue.
Before attempting to re-glue the side glass, the guide rail and the contact surfaces must be cleaned as humanly possible. It is also possible to use a blade or scraper. If at all possible, get rid of any traces of the old glue.
The guideway and the glass’s contact surface are then treated with a potent degreaser.
There are two products that can be used for this specific purpose: brake cleaning and silicone remover. Applying new glass adhesive should be done after first removing as much grease as possible from the connection between the disc and the guideway.
According to the manufacturer’s directions, glue needs to be applied to both the side glass and the clamps or guideway. After that, it is allowed to dry out. After that, everything must be put back together, and that’s it.
Striking power windows
There is also the possibility of a side window defect occurring in automobiles with power windows.
The only difference between these and others is their construction; rather than a crank, they have an electric motor. If it is no longer possible to raise the window at this location, proceed as follows:
Raise and lower the windows using the window lifter: If you hear a whirring sound from the motor, either the side window is stuck in the open position or the engine is about to give out.
Alternately, there is also the possibility that a pulley or a belt has become damaged. Disassembling the door in the manner described is the only thing that will help in this situation.
If the motor does not react upon pressing the power window switch, indicating an electrical problem, the problem is most likely in the wiring. On the other hand, only one thing can be said about this: you will require a multimeter as a tool.
1. Ensure the fuses are intact: Fuses lose their effectiveness over time and can explode when exposed to high point voltages.
2. Make sure the wiring is correct: Check out the wiring leading up to the switch first. One of the three phases must have a voltage of 12 volts.
The phase with the lowest voltage is phase one. If this is absent, but the fuses seem to be functioning normally, then the problem must be a broken wire.
Even though it’s not very common, it is possible. After that, the cable in question needs to be switched out. Always make sure double to check the ground wire for your safety.
3. Make sure the switch is on: Although it is no longer connected to the switch that controls the power window motor, the controller is still wired into the vehicle’s electrical system.
A connection has been made between the multimeter and the window motor contacts. It should indicate a voltage of 12 volts whenever you press the switch or the push button.
If this is not the case and the power cable leading to the switch is in good condition, the switch itself is defective. It might be worthwhile to attempt repair, but it is very laborious.
The switch can be replaced with a new one or a used one that has been tested and certified as safe. This is the quickest method.
You could also give this method a shot to be sure: The body serves as the connection point for the ground wire that runs from the window lifter to the engine.
After that, the lengthy battery cable is yanked toward the motor plug, and both contacts are joined one at a time with the power supply for a series of tests in that order.
If the lifting motor is the only one that reacts at this point, the switch is almost certainly the source of the problem.
This procedure is also beneficial if the side window cannot be lowered because it is stuck. As a result, at least the door to the car can be shut.
4. The switch is working correctly: At this point, only the electric motor remains a potential source of the issue.
Since items of this nature are typically quite pricey, it is in your best interest to investigate them carefully. In most situations, only the dirty contacts can be cleaned and repaired using brake cleaner and contact spray, respectively.
If, on the other hand, you smell something burning coming from the motor, it is likely time to replace it.
Don’t hold back!
Fixing the side glass requires technical know-how, patience, and a systematic approach.
If you test it out at home, you can save significant money here.